Passport Newsletter Travel Blog

Islands of Calm

Passport Newsletter — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 16:26:22 GMT

A number of years ago I discovered a little-known way of carving out a relaxing hour or so from my otherwise tightly scheduled visits around the country. Wherever possible, I search out one of the sculpture gardens that many cities have created as cultural enhancements for their tightly wound urban environments. It’s a quiet pleasure to walk through these installations and admire the work of artists against a background of open greenery that adds qualities of light and space absent from a museum setting. The juxtaposition of crafted objects within natural areas can be exciting, thought provoking or just visually interesting depending as much on your own mood as on the object itself.

One of my favorite such places is the Franklin D. Murphy Sculpture Garden on the UCLA campus. On five landscaped acres, this tranquil park-like garden contains more than 70 works by Isamu Noguchi, Auguste Rodin, Alexander Calder, Henry Moore, Jacques Lipchitz, Barbara Hepworth and many others. Benches line the walks of this low-key oasis founded in 1967 by a former UCLA chancellor. Admission free. Open year-round, day and night. 405 Hilgard Avenue, Los Angeles, CA. Tel: 310-443-7000. http://www.hammer.ucla.edu/collections/4/

Have you seen this garden? If so, tell us what you think of it.

Paula Gifford

A Roar of Butterflies

Passport Newsletter — Wed, 01 Oct 2008 12:35:48 GMT

From Mexico’s colonial cities, it’s worth taking a day or two to drive to Angangueo, a small town in a mountainous area of the Mexican state of Michoacan, not far from Morelia. The high forests around Angangueo are where the Monarch butterfly spends the winter. It’s an absolutely stunning sight to gaze down into the butterfly valley and realize that you are looking at millions of Monarchs. Just as thrilling is to focus your hearing on the barely audible thrum that rises from the valley and realize you’re listening to the movement of millions of butterfly wings! Passport Newsletter has more information about visiting the butterflies, including suggestions for overnighting. You’ll be so thrilled by the experience, you’ll want to tell all your friends, but please, tell us, too.

Paul Gifford

Gothic Whimsy?

Passport Newsletter — Tue, 30 Sep 2008 20:00:10 GMT

San Miguel de Allende is my favorite destination in Mexico. Like the other colonial cities, its development came during the period of Spanish rule of the country. Several of its surrounding cities, easily reached by car for one-day excursions, benefited from the local discovery of large veins of silver. These silver cities grew larger and more prosperous than San Miguel, but none has charm of the city originally named San Miguel el Grande. It was to honor one of its local heroes of Mexico’s war for independence from Spain, General Ignacio Allende, that city’s the name was changed in 1826.

Just opposite the central jardin stands La Parroquia, San Miguel’s main church, which looks like no other church in Mexico, or anywhere else, for that matter. Originally built along Gothic lines, it was repaired and reworked in the late 19th century by a local builder with no architectural training. The result may suggest elements of La Sagrada Familia, in Barcelona, but if so, it’s pure chance. I wouldn’t ordinarily use Gothic and whimsy in the same description of anything, but Gothic whimsy is what La Parroquia projects.

At Christmas, in the plaza in front of La Parroquia, there’s a wildly colorful celebration with music and hundreds of locals dancing in the native costumes of their Indian heritage. If you go, be prepared to take lots of pictures. If you have photos of the Christmas celebrations in San Miguel de Allende and are willing to share them with us, we’ll post them on this blog site.

Paula Gifford

Brighten the Grey Days with Color

Passport Newsletter — Mon, 29 Sep 2008 13:41:32 GMT

The approach of the holiday season makes me—and millions more—think about a winter getaway. By that time, I’m usually in the mood for some warm weather. But I gave up long ago on the Costa del Sol and other European sun spots, largely because of the crowds and attendant tumult. My preferred spots now are the colonial cities of the central Mexican state of Guanajuato, including San Miguel de Allende and Guanajuato City.

You won’t find hot weather. Rather it will be sunny, cool and dry—a light jacket or sweater should be sufficient. Everything you might want to see or do is accessible, and there are no crowds. It’s a time for sleeping late, breakfasting in your room or terrace and spending the day wandering the streets, looking at the local wares and stopping in at a beautiful church or two to see the splendors that centuries of devotion have created.

Have you been to Guanajuato? If so, tell us about your experience. Do you have a “special” place in the area that you’d be willing to share with us? By all means, do.

Paula Gifford

A Savory Brittany Crepe Recipe

Passport Newsletter — Fri, 26 Sep 2008 15:22:38 GMT

Breton cuisine is, naturally enough, largely based on fish and seafood. Virtually every city, town and village has at least one restaurant that you can count on for an excellent meal. (See the Passport Newsletter reports on Brittany for some specific suggestions.)

Here is a recipe for one of Brittany’s most traditional foods , Buckwheat Crêpes:

1/2 cup buckwheat flour
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 2/3 cup milk
3 eggs
2 tablespoons butter, melted
¼ teaspoon salt

Whisk or blend together all the ingredients until smooth. Allow the batter to rest in the refrigerator for at least two hours (overnight will not hurt it). Melt enough butter (a true Breton will use nothing else) in a crêpe pan or skillet over medium heat. Add a scant ¼ cup of batter to the pan and swirl until the bottom of the pan is covered. Cook until the edges show brown and bubbles appear in the center. Slide a wide spatula under the crêpe and flip it over in the pan. Cook for no more than a minute, then transfer to a plate. Keep the crêpes warm until all are made, then spread the centers with your favorite filling, fold and serve.

This recipe always pleases my guests. If you have a different one, or some tips for assuring a delicious finished crêpe, send them along.

Paula Gifford